So continues my quest to find an easier way to decorate cookies, so my cookies don't keep coming out like this:
I'd concluded that the way about it is with cookie molds. Having played around with a few vintage cookie molds, it's now time to try to make my own.
Making a custom cookie mold is simple in theory: create a master that looks like the cookie you want, then take a negative cast of it. That negative cast is your cookie mold.
But you can't just make the master and cast out of anything. Part of working with food is making sure the tools you use are safe to come in contact with food. You don't want to use cadmium-laden plates or ladles that leech carcinogens. There are surprisingly few materials that are graded as safe to come in contact with food, even fewer that you can easily make at home without specialized equipment.
Silicone is an easy pick for the negative. There are many DIY silicone products on the market that are FDA-compliant, and many, such as Alumilite's, advertise this aspect. It's not rigid enough for cookie stamps or springerle, but the flexibility should make the dough easier to demold. The ease of making silicone molds also means it's easy to make many to give as gifts or sell. Uncured silicone can react with some materials commonly used to make masters, though, so you have to make sure that everything is compatible.
The master is where it gets a bit tricky. Polymer clay, namely Sculpey or Fimo, would seem the easy choice; it's durable, easy to use, easy to come by, and non-toxic. I've even come across people who make custom silicone cookie molds using Super Sculpey, the clay I have the most experience with.
Just normal sculptures
However, no polymer clay, even cured, is considered food-safe. One reason for this is that the cured clay is porous, so it's difficult to clean thoroughly and will harbor bacteria with repeated use. This isn't so much a problem for this application; the master won't come in contact with food and its porosity won't transfer to the silicone. The other reason is that polymer clay is made of plastic polymers. While it's safe to handle with your hands, it's not known how much will shed or what components might leach into wet or acidic materials.
I tried asking Alumilite and Sculpey about this. Sculpey never got back to me, but here's what Jess from Alumilite had to say:
Even if the silicone/putty itself is labeled food-safe, we can’t guarantee the finished mold is food-safe if it was made from a master that isn’t food-safe (like polymer clay). Some materials can transfer residue into the mold during curing.
If you’re making cookie stamps or chocolate molds, the safest route is to start with a food-safe master (like acrylic, sealed wood, or another food-safe material).
If you really want to use polymer clay, we’d recommend fully curing it and sealing it with a food-safe coating first before making the mold but for chocolate molds especially, we’d still suggest using a food-safe master when possible.
Thank you, Jess! (I asked about chocolate too, as I've been wanting some chocolate isopods)
What it sounds like is that polymer clay is such a diverse category of materials and this is such a niche application that it's simply not reasonable for a silicone mold company to have tested this. A layer of a food-safe finish meant for wood might help, but it's hard to guarantee total coverage, especially with something so small and ornate. It's entirely possible that this is all perfectly safe, but it could also be a fantastic way to increase your brain's microplastics content.
The only clays that are guaranteed food-safe are ceramics. The most accessible and easiest to use of these is stoneware. The clay itself is even cheaper than most polymer clays by weight! BUT... you need access to a kiln. Being an hour out from Chicago, there's no shortage of kilns in the area, but most studios in the suburbs are oriented toward pottery painting or classes, while studios in the city tend to have membership-based pricing for studio use. Either way, it's about $100 just to try things out. It's been a while since I've worked with ceramics (mostly in school or community art classes), but I recall the basics, which were mostly about how to keep your work from exploding in the kiln. So I understand why a lot of studios don't want to cater to random folks working without an instructor nearby.
It does complicate things, though.
Now, another "option" is to buy a kiln. Small kilns that are more than large enough for my purposes can go for as low as $300 or so, about the same as a 2-month membership with a pottery studio, but are more frequently around $2000 or more. And they need ventilation. And possibly some amount of rewiring. This is on top of the cost of electricity. If you're already fully committed to working with ceramics frequently, it's not a bad idea, but it's otherwise just not practical.
Then there's air dry clay. There's a lot of mixed information on how food safe air dry clay is, probably because there are so many different air dry clays. After all, the only thing a clay needs to be defined as "air dry" is that it dries in air. But in general, air dry clay are not food-safe on their own, but because they tend to be porous like polymer clay, and many do not handle water very well, neither of which should be much of a problem for silicone mold-making once they're sealed. The risk of anything harmful leaching into the mold seems to depend on the exact air dry clay used.
Some people swear by DAS and Amaco air dry clay, but I figured I might be able to bypass trying to determine the safety of their compositions with a homemade clay. I came across a recipe for baking soda clay (it's even on the Arm & Hammer website) that seems reasonably safe and simple:
2 cups baking soda
1 cup corn starch
1 1/4 cups water
Mix it all in a pan, cook it over medium heat, stir until it looks like mashed potatoes, and knead it once it's cool. Easy. Randos on YouTube say it's great.
I thought a Magellanic penguin would be a good test because they retain a lot of detail even when simplified. The critter is less-detailed and less-precise, made just by pinching a ball of clay rather than cutting and carving.
The baking soda clay was soft and very fine in texture, but stubborn and without much stretch. Attaching pieces to each other proved difficult, and it was hard to get hard edges or smooth out cut or carved areas. The only tools I had on hand were a serrated steak knife and a bamboo skewer, so things might've gone better if I'd used a craft knife or dedicated clay tools, but my Super Sculpey figures were made with less. I draped a moist paper towel over the pieces so they'd dry more slowly, but the paper towel dried out overnight while the clay took over 24 hours longer. The results had a chalky texture, and turning them over revealed some cracks (heh) in this plan.
This clay is not all it's cracked up to be
In truth, I made the critter because I got frustrated with the penguin and wanted to make SOMETHING that I thought would come out right. Unfortunately, the thickness ended up making the cracks more severe. These may be salvageable with a little clay to fill the cracks, some sanding, and a coat of shellac, but this is looking like less of a serious sculpting clay and more of a clay to keep the kids busy for a while. It's not something I want to keep fighting against, especially when the results are this bad.
I still have a big lump of clay leftover, so I'll have to figure out what to do with that.
In the realm of homemade clays, salt dough was suggested too. It's less prone to cracking than the baking soda clay, but my past experiences with it all involved much wrangling to get any detail into it. Salt dough has plenty of good applications and is good for keeping kids busy if you also want to keep what they made, but it's not for intricate designs.
One clay that advertises itself as "food grade" and for detail work is Monster Clay. It's an oil-based clay that doesn't cure, just hardens, and is commonly used in the world of special effects prosthetics. While I haven't seen it used much for food, the fact that it's intended for making things that stay on actors' faces for hours at a time is promising. Additionally, the recommended way to use it is to heat it until it melts at 150-170 degrees Fahrenheit (roughly 339-350 Kelvin), then letting it cool to a more solid state. This ensures the clay's workability, but 165°F (347K) is where most bacteria will die, so there's a level of sterilization built into its use.
When stoneware isn't an option, Monster Clay seems like the next best choice.
It is, however, a bit expensive, not widely available, and requires a bit of preparation, so I'll leave that for the next installment.
For now, here are some chocolate cookies I made with my Brown Bag molds and decorated with some luster dust and petal dust:
Even with all the painting, it really is so much less of a hassle than icing cutout cookies. I haven't figure out how to make them taste good yet, but it's a process.
Finally, a song. I stumbled across Na zare by Alyans from 1987 not too long ago, really enjoyed it, and was happy to see that Alyans (albeit with some member changes) still makes music. This one starts with the word "облако" meaning "cloud" so I used just that part in an Instagram story showing off one of the above lighthouse cookies with the painted clouds. I'm sure everyone got the joke and had a good chuckle.